Las Vegas, my kind of town!

It's hard to believe that when I first stayed at Caesar's Palace (working with Ann-Margret), it looked pretty much like this! Well, in 1974, there had been one extension of the original tower, but I stayed in the round building in the center.

My connection with Las Vegas started in 1961, with a 30-minute stopover in the downtown train station on Main Street at 2 am. I was a very young dancer with the "My Fair Lady" National Company, and we were traveling from Salt Lake City to Los Angeles. The 1970s, when I frequently visited for work with Ann-Margret, Raquel Welch, and Diana Ross, introduced me to the then-small town of Las Vegas in a proper fashion, and in 1980 and 1981, I spent a great deal of time here preparing the costumes for "Jubilee."

At that time, Las Vegas was still small. You could cross Las Vegas Boulevard directly; there were no overpasses. There was no 10 lane freeway running by it. The desert was a few blocks away. The airport was small. I don't even remember noticing the mountains all around...the focus was all on The Strip.

I wasn't prepared for the change when I returned in the late '80s. The airport had exploded! By this time, I was working full time as a costume designer for TV series and films in Hollywood and occasionally came up to Las Vegas to shoot on location. Las Vegas already felt somewhat like home.

And now it is home! As I was driving to the airport early this morning to drop off some friends, I admired the clear blue skies and the mountains on all four sides again. Do I pine for the old days? Absolutely not! So, there may be more cars. Still, my city is continually re-inventing itself with new hotels, stadiums, entertainment venues, and university buildings. And as I chronicle in my upcoming book, I too have had to re-invent myself several times….from ballet dancer to Broadway dancer to actress to costume designer. And now, author. Please watch for my book, coming out in the spring.

Women in TV, Film, and (why not) everywhere!

As I work on my book (and yes, I have only 7 more chapters on which to do a substantial re-write and edit!), I think how lucky I have been to be able to pursue a career that I wanted. It wasn’t always so easy for women to choose anything that excited them and go for it.

I have been lucky in my life that I was born into a family where I had many strong women as role models. My paternal step-grandmother was a judge, a mayor, and was, in general, a no-nonsense kind of woman! My great aunt was an obstetrician, one of the first females to graduate in the early 1900’s with a medical degree. There was also a distant cousin who was an Arctic explorer in the early 1900s! So it never occurred to me that I couldn’t do whatever I wanted because I was a woman. It just never entered my mind.

 In high school, most of my classmates were going on to be either nurses or teachers. It seemed a pretty limited selection to me, but I already knew I was going to be a dancer, so what did I care?

 By the early 1970’s I was living in Los Angeles, and it’s not to say that there weren’t obstacles to overcome as a woman. It was difficult at that time, if not downright impossible, for a woman to buy a house without a father or husband to co-sign. Can you imagine! Do you remember Edith Bunker trying to get a loan at the bank? The 1970s were a tumultuous time with all sorts of reexamination of women’s rights going on, and women such as Gertrude Stein, and Erica Jong and Germaine Greer drawing attention. And of course, the demand for equal rights and the sexual revolution changed so much in how we could lead our lives. It was an intoxicating period, with the promise of greater freedom and power!

 And as I started my transition to my career in costume design, many of the top television producers, stars, designers were women. Think Murphy Brown, Designing Women, and Gilmore Girls. The very first producer who took a chance on me, hiring me for The Facts of Life, was a woman, and many of the producers (and a few directors) I worked for in television subsequently were women, including Penny Marshall, Yvette Lee Bowser, Irma Kalish, and Lisa De Cazotte.

 I still believe that it’s important not to feel that you are coming from behind, but that you are starting from the same start line, and that excellence in what you do is the thing that will propel you forward. Not nepotism, not cronyism, not anything but commitment and talent and passion. Call me naive or an optimist, but I’d like to think even men wouldn’t be dumb enough to ignore someone who is really really really good at what they do!

OUT OF MY COMFORT ZONE!

A few weeks ago I was asked if I could make a costume for a skit that was to be a key part of a showbiz roast for Frank Marino in Las Vegas. Anyone who knows me knows I LOVE to design/make costumes and I LOVE to make money, so anytime I can do  the two things at once, I’m one happy camper! But I turned this one down. It was SOOO out of my comfort zone. It was to be a large, and I do mean large, tiger costume, Montecore of Seigfried and Roy fame to be exact, with certain elements of puppetry.  I don’t do animals. I do glamor, glitz, beautiful elegant and classy costumers. I haven’t ever worked with foam, never wielded a knife in the cause of a costume, seldom use a glue gun, am not particularly “crafty”, and know absolutely nothing about how to make the apendages of said animal move.

I thought that was that, but the producer could not find anyone else to do the costume and offered me double what I would have asked, so I weakened and said yes!

The cool thing about being out of your comfort zone is that you are forced to expand your capabilities and do things you thought you had no aptitude for. This was NOT an easy job. The animal has to be big, almost as long as I am tall (5’8”!), and somewhat life like. The legs have to move. It can’t topple over. So off I went to the fabric store and bought lots of fake fur. OMG this is the first time I have worked with fake fur.... it is all over my workroom, in the carpet, in my eyes, certainly up my nose. I had to vacuum every day after working, and I’m still finding fur tufts everywhere.

Thankfully, my husband is very resourceful (and a good sport!) and helped me immensely by building a skeleton of bits and pieces of things we had in our garage and at our neighborhood Lowes. Then I bought foam and started to figure out how to create the shape of this animal.  First fitting did not go well. The producer thought it too small. Back to square one. More fur needed. More vacuuming needed. More patience with myself needed.

Second fittng went pretty well, though the mechanics still weren’t working. Back to Lowes for more supplies.

But in the end, I was amazed that I was able to pull it off! It’s not a glamorous gown, like I enjoy doing, nor is it on the level of a Lion King or War Horse puppet. But it got  huge laughs at the event when it appeared and now it’s all over Twitter!

I’m so glad I wasn’t comfortable for a few weeks - such a sense of accomplishment when it all ends well!

COMING FULL CIRCLE, BACK TO MY SEWING ROOTS!

During my costume designing career, often I have been asked if I sew all my costumes. It always bothered me a bit, because it assumed that a designer has to sit at the sewing machine turning out hundreds of costumes a show might need as well as designing them, meeting with the actors, going to production meetings etc. It is like asking an architect if he constructs all his own buildings!

However, I am now in the process of making a number of costumes for a musical groups’s new show, and to my surprise, I am loving it! I have put in far more hours than my fee would suggest but I don’t mind in this instance, because I am having so much fun! I sit up in my second floor office, which has windows on two sides and a view of Mt Charleston to the west, and sew away on my sturdy little workhorse Singer sewing machine. In the evening I sit downstairs on the sofa and hand sew, trying not to leave the tell-tale sequins scattered on the floor. (Sticky rollers are brilliant for getting up sequins!)

For thirty odd years working as a costume designer for stage, film and TV, I have sewn little more than a few throw pillows and hems and minor alterations on my own clothes. I have relied on the fully professional and divinely talented people in my costume workrooms who look at my sketches and miraculously turn them into fully realized costumes. They make the patterns, turn out a “muslin” sample for my approval, cut the fabric, assemble it, and put in those pesky zippers. Then, once the fitting is done, they make the adjustments, and add the beading or trim, and do the final hand finishing. One of the great joys of costume design is seeing one’s creation go from my imagination to sketch to finished product on the actor!

I started hand sewing at an early age, growing up in England. All little girls were taught to sew, and we had a class where the teacher would read to us while we did our embroidery. When I was 8 years old I won my first prize for embroidery!

Later, during my teen years in Canada, I went to a summer course at the Singer Sewing Machine center, realizing that I could get more clothes to wear if I learned to make them myself.

During my Broadway career (as a dancer and actress) I used to sew many of my own clothes, inspiring my friends to ask me to make clothing for them. I even had a line of dresses that I took around to the various theaters on Broadway for the dancers and singers to look at and buy. 

Once relocated to Los Angeles to pursue my acting career, I supported myself in-between gigs with making patchwork dresses and skirts, also quilts and pillows which I sold to interior decorators, private clients, and at outdoor craft shows.

Eventually my career morphed from performing to costuming. My first job was co-ordinating the costumes for Ann-Margret’s nightclub act, dealing with the many costumes for the dancers and singers. When I worked up the nerve to ask if I could design a dress for Ann-Margret herself, guess who sewed it....ME!  I remember many a night struggling away to make it fit, make it perfect, even adding the rhinestones myself.

So, flash forward to my professional costume design career for TV series and films....no sewing! I remember fondly the many wonderful women and men who made my designs come to life. And now, I am happy sitting upstairs sewing away, trying to do as good a job as they did.

DREAM BIG, FORGET THE SAFE LIFE!

In two weeks I will be going to the airport to pick up a young lady I have never met, a young woman who sought me out via email a couple of years ago. She grew up in Turkey, and now lives and works in Germany. She told me about her dreams of designing costumes, even though she is highly educated and accomplished in the field of politics and international relations. I do not know her design talents, but I do know that if she wants a costume career as badly as she seems to, I should encourage her to give it a try. So I did.

She has saved up enough money,taken some classes, got her visa, and is coming to intern with me for a couple of weeks and look into further longer lasting internship possibilities.

She has said in her emails that no-one else has encouraged her but me, so when I read Xazmin Garza’s column in todays Las Vegas Review Journal, I thought of her. Below is an excerpt of Garza's column:

Everyone has a dream somewhere along the line. Dreamers just dare to keep having them well after society expects them to stop. There’s a reason the question “what do you want to be” always ends with “when you grow up.” We equate dreaming with immaturity. 

......To go after something beyond standard goals — 10 fingers and 10 toes, a corner office, the lifestyle that comes with the Champagne that comes with the car — requires bravery. Not just for what might be sacrificed to do it, but for all the naysayers who will inevitably be encountered along the way.

It’s also Father’s Day today, so I am grateful to both my parents (both long gone) for allowing me to dream big. It wasn’t always easy for them, I don’t think, as my dreams of a showbusiness career did not guarantee me a nice stable and possibly affluent lifestyle in the city where I grew up, surrounded by family and friends. But they didn’t stop me when I flew off to Boston the day after I wrote my last exam for my BA, to audition as a dancer for the “My Fair Lady” National Company and, as it turns out, never to live at home again.

So Mum and Dad, thanks so much for letting me go, letting me dream. And I’ll write more about my intern in a few weeks. I hope to be part of her realizing her dreams.

WOMEN IN FILM AND LIFE: SOME THOUGHTS

The other night I was one of four judges at the UNLV produced film festival called “Spring Flicks”. At the end of the three day event, awards were handed out for best film, best director, best editing, best cinematography, and so forth. And then, to my total and utter surprise, I was awarded a special “CInefemme of the Year” award for my support and encouragement of a group of young and mostly female film-makers during the year. I was touched beyond words, and still think I really didn’t do enough to really deserve this honor.

Cinefemmes was also awarding a screenwriter, either male or female, an award for the best female protagonist.  Yet here we are in 2013, and to my surprise and disappointment, even these energetic and creative young film-makers were still making films about females as strippers, hookers, victims, or nags! And this all got me to thinking about the continuing role of women in film, in life, and the world in general.

I have been lucky in my life for a couple of reasons, one being that I chose careers that are largely female driven, first ballet, and later costume design, which is pretty evenly divided between male and female. But secondly, I was born into a family where I had many strong women as role models. My paternal step-grandmother (my real grandmother died before I was born) was a judge, a mayor, received the MBE for her services to the community, and was in general a no nonsense kind of woman. My great aunt was an obstetrician, one of the first females to graduate in early 1900’s with a medical degree. There was also a distant cousin who  was an Arctic explorer in the early 1900’s!  So it never occurred to me that I couldn’t do whatever I wanted because I was a woman. It just never entered my mind.

In high school, most of my classmates were going on to be either nurses or teachers. It seemed a pretty limited selection to me, but I already knew I was going to be a dancer, so what did I care? Even in college it was a fairly common “joke” that women who went to college were not after a BA or MA, but a MRS! But me, I was headed to Broadway and a husband was the last thing on my mind.

By the early 1970’s I was living in Los Angeles, and it’s not to say that there weren’t obstacles to overcome as a woman. It was difficult at that time, if not downright impossible, for a woman to buy a house without a father or husband to co-sign. Can you imagine! Remember Edith Bunker trying to get a loan at the bank?  The 1970’s were a tumultuous time with all sorts of reexamination of women’s rights going on, and women such as Jane Fonda, Gertrude Stein, and Erica Jong and Germaine Greer drawing attention. And of course the demand for equal rights and the sexual revolution changed so much in how we could lead our lives. It was an intoxicating period, with promise of greater freedom and power!

And as I started my transition to my career in costume design, there were times I strived to be given my due worth. On one TV pilot, the DP kept referring to me as “the wardrobe girl” whereas in fact I was the Costume Designer. He seemed surprised when I called him on it. I told him if he didn’t stop, I would from here on in refer to him as “the lighting boy.” Of course he thought me uppity! But luckily, many of the top TV designers were women, and gradually we were recognized properly.  My very first producer who took a chance on me, hiring me for The Facts of Life, was a woman, and a darned wonderful woman and producer at that. Many of the producers (and a few directors) I worked with in television subsequently were women, including Penny Marshall, Yvette Lee Bowser,  Irma Kalish, and Lisa De Cazotte.

So are things any better? Oh yes, and oh no. Women still earn less on the dollar than men for the equivalent or same job, though in union work, salaries for the same work are equal. There are more females in Congress than there used to be, but not enough, and more females at the top of the corporate ladder, but not enough. Perhaps we finally might have a female president?

And in film, I always sit through the entire credits at the end of the film, and see more and more credits for female editors, production designers, directors, and so forth. So when I hear the young film-makers complain how rough a job they have completing for jobs in a man’s world, part of me wants to say “you have NO idea of how bad it used to be”! 

I still believe that it’s important not to feel that you are coming from behind, but that you are starting from the same start line, and that excellence in what you do is the thing that will propel you forward. Not nepotism, not cronyism, not anything but commitment and talent and passion. Call me naive or an optimist, but I’d like to think even men wouldn’t be dumb enough to ignore someone who is really really really good at what they do!

Costume design for Sci Fi, who knew!

I am currently spending many hours at my desk preparing for my first ever three hour seminar on Costuming for Film and TV, which is being presented on April 13th at UNLV. (see link at bottom for more information).

The first hour will be film clips from some of my favorite films from various genres, starting with period (Marie Antoinette), then moving to more recent periods such as the 1940’s (42, the movie about Jackie Robinson) and the 70’s (Argo). We’ll also look at a number of contemporary films such as Silver Linings Playbook, and The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.

Then I am turning to Sci Fi and fantasy films, and oh what a revelation for me! Confession alert: I am so not a fan of sci fi and rarely see those films. I love films rooted in reality, so even if a movie starts off looking “real”, the moment weird creatures start flying in, I’m out!

No judgement here. It’s just my taste, my preference. So I have surprised myself in discovering how fascinated and impressed I am with the work of sci fi costume designers. As I research films like Tron, Prometheus, After Earth, and more, I realize how much goes into coming up with the looks. As one costume designer I saw interviewed said: “sci fi is the last place where you completely rely on your imagination. Period films can be largely rented, contemporary films can be largely shopped, but in sci fi you create a costume from scratch.”

I am learning that these costumes more than many others require extensive collaboration with the director, production designer and art department, props, lighting, and special effects, as everyone together tries to create a brand new world. Sci fi designers have to deal far more with technology, and can discover and use materials that you don’t usually think of as materials for a costume. 

One designer commented that in over 60 years of Oscar Awards, less than 10% of Best Costume Design nominations have been for futuristic costumes. John Mollo’s designs for Star Wars won one back in 1977, but normally the heavily ornamented period costumes of “corset dramas” usually garner not only the nominations, but also the wins. This year Jacqueline Durran won for Anna Karenina, last year the 1920’s costumes of The Artist, and Elizabeth The Golden Age, The Duchess, and The Young Victoria, all won in the recent past.

So I have a renewed respect for the imaginative and innovative work of the sci fi costume designers. Bravo!

https://connect2.unlv.edu/costuming

www.dianaedendesigns.com

Then and now: Jason Bateman, Debra Messing, so many more

I know this is going to make me sound (but not feel) frightfully old......but I can’t help but take pleasure in seeing so many actors I have worked with in the past working in today’s TV and films. Not a day goes by when I don’t spot a former “costumee” of mine on the tube or silver screen.  

Case in point: yesterday my husband and I saw the film “Identity Thief”, starring two of “my actors”. Jason Bateman guest starred on the TV series “Ned and Stacey” in the ’90’s, and he seems exactly the same as I remember him. Nice. Unassuming, Gently funny. Gorgeous green eyes. I have a photo of him somewhere on set.

Another actor I actually didn’t recognize in the film at first was Robert Patrick.  I went on IMDB and saw this quote "I think 90% of acting is makeup and wardrobe. The other 10% is what I do here in my office, bouncing off the walls."  Haha, I know actors won't agree (and neither do I completely) but I love the shout-out to make-up and costumes! It actually reminded me of Robert, who showed up late to his fitting for a TV one hour pilot  I was designing called “Snitch”. The next day he showed up to his second fitting on time and said “my wife told me I have to apologize for yesterday and that I was being an ass-hole”! He made me laugh, and we got along great.

I love the TV show “Smash” and watch it religiously every time it is on. It takes me right back to my own Broadway days as a dancer. I’m sure lots of things have changed since then, but it still feels very familiar. And there is fabulous Debra Messing, whom I costumed for two years on the aforementioned Ned and Stacey! Debra was a handful, but I adored her. She refused to allow the producers to coerce me into putting her into padded bras (typical sitcom-think!) and had her own ideas for the bohemian Stacey. We had great fun defining her look. Of course, Thomas Haden Church was even more of a handful, but in a completely different way - droll, stubborn, with that incredible voice. But his wardrobe is one of the looks I created (with his input of course) that I am most proud of. The Atlanta Journal Constitution said “ Thomas Haden Church is one of the best dressed men on TV”.

Then there’s “The Big Bang Theory”, a hit TV comedy. I have two of my former “kids” on it. Mayim Bialek was 12 or 13 when I first costumed her for a pilot spin-off of “The Facts of Life”. She was very funny. She had a scene where she wanted to be more grown up and stuffed socks in her chest. And the self assured young woman who is today Kaley Cuoco was 15 wen I first worked with her on a TV movie with Tony Danza, shot in Vancouver. 

Another successful young woman is Alyson Hannigan, I’m sure known to everyone under 35 for many successful series, now in “How I Met Your Mother”. She was also around 15 when I costumed her in one of her first TV shows, which was cancelled after 12 episodes. She wailed ”I’ll never work again”, which is what we all think when a show is cancelled.

Then there’s Dennis Haysbert, the tall actor with the deep voice who is seen in all the Allstate commercials and played the President in the series “24”. He had a bit part in “The Facts of Life” as a cop. I don’t even remember him. And the high school Principal  Figgins, in “Glee”, Iqbal Theba - he played a bit part on one of my sitcoms.

And of course, my biggest star, George Clooney! We all know what happened to him!

P.S. Don't forget to check me out on www.HollywoodMentors.co

THE COSTUMES OF DOWNTON ABBEY

A few weeks ago I was asked to give a presentation on the costumes of the hit British TV series, “Downton Abbey” to a group of about 100 guests. This was for a PBS fundraiser at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Las Vegas.

I immediately said yes, and then realized that I had not been watching the entire series and that I needed to do some quick catching up. And what a pleasure that turned out to be! The Season 1 and 2 episodes told such a wonderful story, and are set in the magnificent Highclere Castle, which stands in for Downton Abbey. It is really a visual treat, with lavish and richly saturated colors in both sets and costumes. A sumptuous feast for the eyes!

The story starts in 1912 with news of the sinking of The Titanic  and continues through World War One. We see the last vestiges of the aristocratic country life in England, then the dramatic cultural changes that the war created. Men went to war, women had to fill in and do things they had never done before, such as nursing or helping on the farms. Their clothing became looser, hems shorter, and  the War Office asked them not to buy corsets, as the steel in the eyelets was needed to build battleships.  Season three is about to start, and takes us through the 1920’s. Clothing becomes shorter yet, and once released from the bondage of corseting, the waists disappear, busts are flattened, and the emphasis is on the hip, a totally different silhouette.

While doing research for my presentation, I read a lot about the Downton Abbey designers (there have been several throughout the 3 seasons) and their approach, which I found fascinating. 

I always thought the British would be  sticklers for period accuracy, and was pleasantly surprised to find that they had no qualms about making adjustments in palette or detail to suit a viewing audience in the 21st century. Hardly one to diss my fellow American costume designers, however, I must say I find that the Brits seem to be able to make period clothes look like “real clothes”, not just “costumes”. There is a subtlety and ease about the look of the wardrobe that impresses me.

The designers have gathered the costumes, of which many are needed for the large cast, both upstairs and downstairs, from several sources. They rent, of course, though they call it “hiring” the costumes. There are many fine costume houses in Europe with an abundance of wonderful pieces, and Carolyn McCall, the current designer, readily admitted that one of the three dresses worn by the sisters had been worn before in the Merchant Ivory film “A Room with a View”. A few costumes are actual vintage pieces that she was able to find, though finding something that old is hard to find in good enough condition to hold up during filming. And lastly of course, costumes are made from scratch, in this case often incorporating some pieces salvaged from original vintage garments.

That must have been the most fun! Scouring the vintage stores, private collections, even flea markets for bits and pieces of lace, silk flowers, or trim that could be removed from a fading hat and given new life, or some antique beading that could be cut from is original dress and sewn onto or into a new gown - that’s such a pleasure for a costume designer. I’m jealous!

So hat’s off to you, British television, and British costume designers. I can’t wait for Season Three. I hate to admit it, but you really do good work!

REMEMBERING LARRY HAGMAN

I had the pleasure of designing costumes about 20 years ago for Larry Hagman in a TV movie called “Staying Afloat”, produced for NBC.

I first met Larry at the Culver Studios in Culver City, Ca, when I went for my interview. He was sitting in his office which he had draped all sorts of exotic middle eastern fabrics to cover every inch and ceiling, creating a tent like environment. I had never interviewed in quite such a place! I was eager to please, as this might be my very first TV Movie ( previously I had designed nothing by series), and it was to be filmed in Fort Lauderdale. I had dressed up in a smart suit, worn high heels,  and carried my large portfolio. Apparently Larry thought that the way I was dressed indicated that I might not be the kind of person who would get in there and work hard, so initially I did not get the job. However, I was lucky enough to have a producer who was rooting for me, so I went in again dressed more casually (I never was a jeans kind of girl), and he liked me better and I was hired!

My next meeting with him was at our first fitting, He was playing a rich man whose father had disowned him and who only possession of note was a 1930’s designer yacht, so I had brought in lots of beautiful clothing, nautically inspired. He liked some of the things, but rejected anything that had any brown/tan/beige in it (which was half of my selection), apologizing for not telling me he only liked blue!

Anyway, after that it was all “smooth sailing”, and I thoroughly enjoyed working with him. He was very funny, and enjoyed “holding court” and telling stories,  many of which were about his days on Dallas. He said he was so famous during that time that the extras would steal the powder puffs that had been used to mop his sweat, and that if he fell asleep on set or traveling on a train, people would snap his photo with his mouth open during a snore!

He had a mischievous side, a stubborn side, an eccentric side. One time I had placed some pastel plaid shirts in his trailed to be worn with his navy blazer and he told me point blank he didn’t like plaid. I sweetly said I didn’t have any other choice handy, and would he reconsider? About thirty minutes later he emerged completely dressed in the outfit, plaid shirt and all, winked at me and said “I like plaid now”. 

One custom he had established for himself which he would NOT under any circumstance break, was that he would not speak at all one day a week, on a Saturday I believe. No matter what. We could not shoot any scenes he was in that day. One day a reporter had been scheduled for an interview for a story on his silent day (by mistake) and though he didn’t cancel the interview, he only answered questions with facial expressions, hand gestures, and occasionally a note on a pad. It seems ironic now, as his death last week came from complications from throat cancer.

When we returned to Los Angeles, there was one last day of filming to be done, and he offered his gorgeous home in Ojai as a shooting location. He had told me that he was tired, after Dallas, of having all his money in the hands of agents, managers, and lawyers, and he wanted to put it instead into something he could physically see and enjoy. So after a big search, he found the perfect plot of land on top of a mountain above Ojai, with a view to the Pacific. The house was designed by him and his talented wife Maj and decorated to perfection. There was a pool in the central courtyard, streams flowing out of it into an infinity pool  off the cliff, as well as an indoor lap pool and deep jacuzzi. Hammocks were strung across the porch of the house that overlooked the valley and the ocean. Everything was in the most immaculate taste.

Larry gave me the gift of a book on needlecraft that his mother, Mary Martin, had written, since he knew I loved quilting and embroidery. 

I always smile when I think of him.

COSTUMES, HALLOWEEN, & COLORFUL CHARACTERS

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  Every once in a while I have several nights in a row when I awake around 4 am and can’t sleep. I think I am worried about the outcome of the presidential election. But no, this is not a political blog, so I will quickly move on!
  
  
  Here’s what made me happy this week:
  
  
  • The newest issue of Entertainment Weekly (which I subscribe to) features several articles under the banner ‘Hollywood Design Report”, chronicling costume, set, and prop designers for various films and TV series (Once Upon a Time, Les Miz, Boardwalk Empire and more”!  I'm happy also to see the wonderful work of my colleague Eduardo Castro featured so prominently on the cover and inside. I remember back 10 years ago or so when the Costume Designers Guild (on whose executive board I served for 3 terms, once as Vice-President) first searched for a PR firm to raise the profile of costume designer. All of the applicants made their case that it would be a very hard sell, as most publications were more interested in the stars, not designers. Thankfully that has really changed!
  
  
  • I have been asked to give a presentation at a fundraiser for PBSVegas on the fashions of Downton Abbey. The event will take place at the Mandarin Oriental here in Las Vegas in December and will be an afternoon tea. I have a lot of research to do to come up with a worthy presentation which will honor the costumes, and also be interesting to a large group of PBS supporters.
  
  
  • I finished a little girl’s Halloween costume and had the delight of seeing the 2 1/2 year old twirl delightedly and gaze at herself in the mirror! I rarely make Halloween costumes (most professional costume designers don’t much care for Halloween!) but this seemed like a worthy project for an adorable toddler and a very nice client.
  
  
  • I received a phone call from one of my “students/mentees” to give me the good news that she is now Assistant Costume Designer for “Absynthe”, one of the big shows on the Strip, thanks (in a small part) to my recommendation. Nothing gives me more of a thrill than hearing that someone who sought me out for training, who put in the time and hard work, and has steadily worked on her career, is achieving success and accomplishments. I am so proud of her, and so grateful that she has kept in touch with me. In fact we are meeting for lunch in a week or so.
  
  
  • And lastly, I was watching The Today Show the other morning and saw a feature on three seriously senior women (80’s and 90’s) who have flamboyant and colorful personal style. I suppose the younger generation would look at them and think they are off their rockers, but then seniors often look at today’s teens and think THEY are off their rockers! But these seniors made me laugh and smile at the riotous colors they wore and the joy they took in their own unique sense of style. One said she calls herself “a geriatric starlet”, and another says “life is very grey when you dress up it makes you happy.” When I see older women, especially here where I live in Las Vegas, wearing baggy cotton crop pants, boxy t-shirts, and Birkenstocks, I despair, and think I’d rather be wildly eccentric and colorful as I approach senior style myself!. So, as the spriti moves me, so will I dress!
  
  
  
  
  
  

MY LAS VEGAS

I feel a real kinship with Las Vegas, my city of residence since 2008, as it has figured largely in my professional and personal life through 5 decades. 

My association with Las Vegas starts in the 1960's (yes, I was alive in the ‘60‘s!) when, as a very young dancer, I came through the town on the train with the My Fair Lady company, on our way to Los Angeles. It was 2 am and the train stopped on the tracks downtown. I don’t remember a station, though I know there was one.  From our part of the train, we descended into a dirt lot, which we ran across, then crossed a street, and into a casino, what must have been the Hotel California. We had 30 minutes to put our quarters in the slot machines, something I had never seen, before we had to run back across the dirt lot to the train! It all seemed very strange and exotic and somewhat wicked!

I didn't return until the early 1970's when I got my first job in costumes, hired to co-ordinate the dancers’ wardrobe for Ann-Margret's nightclub act at the Hilton International, and then at Caesars. It was one of the highly successful acts of the time with dancers, singers, scenery and costumes galore, a live 30 piece orchestra on stage, and the best production talent around. Elvis Presley used to send Ann-Margret flowers on opening night in the shape of a guitar!   My first professional design was a dress for Ann-Margret that she wore in the TV special "CInderella at the Palace". 

Through Ann-Margret I met Bob Mackie, and my costume career really got underway. In 1980 I returned to Las Vegas for a 2 month stint, staying at the MGM Grand, as assistant to Bob Mackie as we prepared to open Jubilee, (the same show currently running). I was on the eleventh floor when I was awakened by the sound of running feet in the hall and people calling out, and I emerged into the hall to find it full of smoke.  I grabbed my purse, pulled on a sweat suit, and hurried down 11 flights of fire escape stairs emerging into the street, and started to look for my colleagues. The smoke was black and racing up the side of the hotel. Huge helicopters from Nellis AFB were hovering, trying to blow the smoke away from the rescue teams. Police cars, fire engines, news media were starting to arrive amid the chaos. I was barefoot and my feet were freezing until a man stopped and offered me his sneakers, a size 13! I wore them the rest of that day.

There were 14 of us Jubliee costumers from Los Angeles staying at the MGM for the great fire. Sadly, only 13 of us survived. I will never forget that day, nor the kindness of strangers who tried to help us. 

I returned many times in 1981 as we pulled out the ruined costumes from under the stage, led by firemen with flashlights, as there was still no power. We rebuilt the show in Los Angeles, and returned in July to re-do all the fittings, staying at Maxims across the street. 

In the early 80’s, Las Vegas still was small. You could cross Las Vegas Boulevard directly (no overpasses), there was no freeway, we ate at a little dive called The Tower of Pizza. The desert was near. The airport was very small. I don’t even remember noticing the mountains all around...the focus was all on the Strip.

I returned during the 80's now and then to work on shows (such as Splash, at the Riviera) but I wasn't prepared for the change when I returned in the late 80's. The airport had exploded! By this time I was working full time as a costume designer for TV series and films in Hollywood, and occasionally came up to Las Vegas to shoot on location. In 2003 we bought our first house here, and so when my husband and I were ready to make a semi-retirement move, Las Vegas already felt like home.

Since moving here in 2008 I am experiencing Las Vegas in a whole new way. I love looking at the mountains on all four sides of the valley, and in winter I love observing  the snow capped peaks of Mt Charleston out my second floor office window. I hike with friends year round at Red Rock, Lake Mead, or Mt Charleston, and I have discovered all sorts of unique little neighborhoods. In the north part of town where we live, sometimes I come across a small ranch with barns and horses, completely surrounded by new housing developments. I even enjoy hearing the trains that still travel down that same track that I travelled so long ago. There is still a flavor here and there of the old West, ranch life, desert life, mixing with the sophisticated elements of the Strip restaurants, shops and shows.

I visit the Strip quite often (more often than many full-time residents) to attend events, shows, parties, and to work, shop or eat. It’s only 15 minutes away! As I exit the freeway at Flamingo I pass Caesars, where so much happened for me professionally 30 years ago, and the huge bill board for Jubilee, which played was such a pivotal role in my life. I even pass by the fire escape door where I exited the MGM into the cold daylight on Flamingo Blvd. that fateful morning.

Old Vegas, New Vegas, there’s a part of my in all its parts, and I am happy about that.

WORKING WITH PENNY MARSHALL

I just saw Penny Marshall on The Today Show, and I have ordered her book. Can’t wait to read it!

I had the interesting experience (and yes, I would say, the pleasure) of working with her in 1992 when I was hired to costume design the TV series A League of Their Own. The movie had been a huge hit, and the TV series was the hot ticket - everyone in Holllywood wanted to be involved.

A man I had previously worked with on several other series was producing it and set up a time for me to come in and meet with Penny. She was sitting behind her desk in her huge office at Sony Studios when I entered, and was eating from a large bowl of spaghetti! She apologized, saying she had not had a moment to have lunch, and to please sit down and show her my portfolio. It was a bit disconcerting, and I was nervious. She was so droll! In my nervousness I said that I was experience in the “thirties” costumes that would be needed, and without missing a beat and without looking up she said “forties”. I had nearly blown it! World War 2 story - of course 1940’s costumes!

I started work early before the cast was set, as she wanted me to have enough 40’s clothing to outfit all the actors doing screen tests. Every actress in town wanted to be cast and therefore were so sweet and appreciative of my efforts to make them look the part. Only later when we were well under way filming did the seven “Peaches” girls start to get competitive and fight for rank!

Penny was always droll, both in production meetings and while filmling, and she had her favorites. She was never big with compliments or lots of touchy feely stuff, though I think I would have heard about it if she hadn’t liked what I was doing. She expected top level work from everyone, but didn’t see any need to draw attention to what she thgouht was the norm.  Her brother,  Garry Marshall, on the other hand, was the exact opposite - outgoing, mellow, kind, full of smiles and compliments all around. I reminded him that he had nearly cast me as Gwendolyn PIgeon in the TV series The Odd Couple  some years back (while I was still an actress) and he was kind enough to say I was a wonderful and he wishes I had got the part! He may not even have remembered me, but I didn’t care!

We only filmed 6 episodes, and Penny directed a couple of them. Tom Hanks came in to direct one episode too, though at first I didn’t recognize him, as he had just finished filming Philadelphia, and was still thin and growing his hair back from that Oscar winning performance.

Only two episodes aired, in mid summer. The show got bad ratings, and was plucked off the air. I however, was incredibly honored to still get nominated for my first Emmy  for Best Costume Design for a Series.

THE VALUE OF HAVING A MENTOR

When I was starting my costume design career many years ago, I was very grateful for the guidance and encouragement I received from several “mentors”. Back then, the word “mentor” was not in common use as it is now, but I realize in retrospect that several key people played a very important role in my life.

Bob Mackie is obviously one of THE most important mentors in my life. When I met him, I had already transitioned from my career as a dancer and actress and started my costume career  co-ordinating the dancers and singers wardrobe for Ann-Margret’s big Las Vegas nightclub act in Las Vegas. For you younger readers, she was a huge star at the time, and had all the best musicians, writers, set designers, and of course, famed costume designer Bob Mackie to do all her fabulous costumes and beaded gowns. 

I remember the first time I met Ann-Margret and Roger Smith, her husband and manager. I had been taken to their house in Beverly Hills, up a dirt road off Benedict Canyon where once Lauren Bacall and Humphrey Bogart lived. It was about ten am, but Ann-Margret had slept late. Eventually she came out of her bedroom, hair tousled, no make-up, but warm and gracious. She hugged me and I was astonished at how petite she was. She asked me if I would put a heavy metal zipper in the back of one of her stage beaded gowns so it would be easier in a quick change. Imagine me, replacing the exquisitely hand sewn zipper in a $10,000 Bob Mackie beaded gown with a big metal zipper! What would he Bob Mackie think?

It wasn’t long after that I met him and I guess something about me struck him as, a year or two later he asked me to be his assistant for the Oscar Awards Show 1980, and then Jubilee, opening at the MGM Grand in 1980. This started a life-long connection with one of the best designers in the business, and with a kind and generous man. I did not call him a mentor, I was just his assistant, but I had the opportunity to watch him work at every level of the process - greeting a star when they arrived for a meeting, sketching, designing, choosing fabrics, choosing the best pattern-maker and team of sewers and tailors to execute the design, and most importantly, fitting it on the performer, usually many times. I watched perfectionism at its best.

There simply was no better training ground for me. I watched everything, asked many many questions, and for many years during my career, called for guidance and advice when I got stuck. Even last year, when I requested an hour out of his busy schedule for an interview for a book I am writing, he willingly gave me his time.

I would be remiss not to mention my other mentors, two designers who worked in Bob Mackie’s company, Peter Menefee, whom I assisted for several years, and Ret Turner, who is known and loved by every designing and costumer in Hollywood. 

So why would someone like me be willing to mentor someone at the beginning of their career? Well, one of the obvious answers is that others helped me so much along the way, and it is my turn to help others. 

I had started this blog with the intention of discussing how to find a good mentor and why it is important, and why I like to mentor talented young designers and costumers, but this is running on too long, and I will have to save it for my next post.

In the meantime, you can find out more about my mentoring and training course at my website www.hollywoodmentors.co

ROBERT FLETCHER, famed Costume Designer

For those of you interested in costume design and costume designers, please enjoy this  article I wrote, for the website of the Costume Designers Guild, my "union", local 892, for most of my designing career in Hollywood.

http://costumedesignersguild.com/articles-videos/news-events/

MEMORIES OF OLYMPIC COSTUMES!

Back in 1984, I was one of a number of costumers who got to work on the Opening and Closing Ceremonies of the Los Angeles Olympics!

And while the experience of being there for the that opening, and of seeing the lighting of the Olympic torch, are all among the highlights of my life, the two months leading up to them were anything but.

Bob Mackie and Pete Menefee were the costume designers for every element of the Opening Ceremonies, and each and every outfit worn had to be designed, made, and then fit on the participants, of which there were literally thousands! Our workspace was a huge warehouse in downtown Los Angeles, which had a tin roof, no windows, and was unbearably hot in July. The performers were all assigned a day to come and get their costume and were told to expect to spend at least 3 to 4 hours. When they arrived, their name was checked off against a list, their measurements taken, which were  then sent on to the next "station" while they tried on shoes. Imagine over a thousand pair of shoes in one spot! Once they got to the fitting area, they were handed their costume and sent to a cubicle to try it on. Then they came to me, one of 6 "fitters", where we took in, let out, marked hems, and tried to make each individual look perfect. The costume then went to the alteration department, who tried to complete the alterations quickly for the performer who sat in the waiting area.

The hours were incredibly long, and the work very repetitive, and we were paid a small salary as we had been told we were part "volunteers" and were privileged to be "a part of history".

Some of the tasks were quite amusing, in a weird way. It took two full days to remove the pins from the band members' white dress shirts, which arrived fully folded, pinned, and wrapped in plastic. There were 850 members in the marching band, so.....that meant 850 + shirts to unwrap.

Sometimes I was sent out to shop, which I liked, as it got me out and broke up the day. It also pleased the shop owners that I visited, as I was usually buying in great quantity. One task was to go out and find 300 pairs of legwarmers for the dancers! I bought out every dance shop's supply!

As we got closer and closer to the event, we spent more time at the Coliseum, to set up dress rehearsals, and found that the distances between "stage right" and "stage left" were immense and heaven forbid you forgot an item, as it would take 20 minutes to get back to home base and then back again.

One day as we entered the park, our ID badges around our necks, we spotted one of the European swimming teams getting ready for a training session at one of the pools. Without any self consciousness, they stripped off their shorts, and, as we discovered, many did not wear underwear. They casually pulled on their swim trunks while we tripped over each other taking a look!

The last 4 days before the Opening, we worked 18 hours a day. It was grim. I thought I might literally die from fatique. One night I fell into bed, and it seemed like minutes later when the alarm went off. My husband said I burst into tears as I couldn't believe it was morning already!

But the day of the Opening itself was magic. From the moment we passed through security, we could feel the excitement in the air. Organizers, bigwigs,  coaches, volunteers, assistants, guides, stage crew, all were scurrying around, working feverishly toward the 3 o'clock hour when it all started on the button. One moment sticks out in my mind. Every person in the stands had a colored card on their seat and was told that it was going to be used for a special moment later in the ceremony. At about half way through, they all were told to hold up the card with the silver side facing out. On the count of three they were to turn it over. One! Two! Three! And the whole stadium turned into color, with the cards creating the flags of every country participating! It took my breath away, and once more tears flowed from my eyes, this time from joy!

So watching these Olympics in London, 2012, brings back all the memories, intense, difficult, and exalted, that that opportunity bought me. I  was a lucky girl to be "a part of history"!

Costume Training! Dance! Olympics!

My attention has been split recently between a lot of exciting things happening!

1.) My www.HollywoodMentors.co online costume training website is finally getting out there! Yesterday I heard from a potential student in Nigeria, as well as getting a number of emails and enquiries. I do hope I will have time enough to help all the interesting and talented people who contact me for help with entering a costume career in TV and film.

2) I was in Los Angeles over the weekend, enjoying a fabulous visit with my former intern from Belarus, who spent a summer with me on "Passions", and who now is a very successful costumer and pattern-maker, working on the TV series "Dexter". We went together to see the Dizzyfeet Celebration of Dance Gala at the Music Center in LA, where we met a number of our favorite choreographers and dancers from my favorite TV show "So You Think You Can Dance", and witnessed some amazing performances from many talented dance professionals in all types of dance. Even though I have been a costume designer for many many years, I started my working life as a dancer, and, you know what they say, "once a dancer, always a dancer"! We came away totally psyched by the positive energy of the wonderful evening, and it took several days to come down from the natural high!

3) Yes, I've been watching the Olympics every night on TV. It's wonderful to see the young athletes pushing themselves to be their very best, physically, emotionally, and mentally. All achievements come with dedication, commitment, occasional heartache, discipline, consistency, some sacrifice, and lots and lots of passion. Be it sport, costume design, or dance.

4.) We have six more days of filming on the Gregory Popovich movie during the month of August! I have two costumes yet to "establish", that of the "Voice of the American West", an iconic cowboy-for-al-times look, and one for "Johnny Fantastic", a mix between a ringmaster and an old Western medecine man.

Talk again soon. Got to get back to the Olympics.

Latest news on my costume design!

Well well, I can't believe it's been April since I last blogged! That's because I have been very busy with a number of really interesting projects.

Some time in February I was contacted concerning doing costumes for an independent film about Gregory Popovich's Pet Theater. I had seen Gregory Popovich's charming afternoon show with his trained rescue dogs and cats at Planet Hollywood, knew he was a 6th generation Moscow Circus artist, and also knew of the film's producers from previous films. I was intrigued. I read the script and was hooked. It's not my usual type of project, but how can you resist colorful characters and animals! I was also able to contact Antonio Fargas, whom I had worked with on the film "Stealing Las Vegas" and persuade him to play a leading role in the film.

Filming was delayed a couple of times, but finally got underway in May and has been going well ever since. We do not shoot every day, as in a regular feature shoot, because Gregory still performs his show almost every afternoon, and the Thompson Brothers (co-producers and directors) also have other professional commitments, so all in all it has been fun and not too high pressure. It's a lovely story, and I hope the final product does very well with children (of all ages!).

Then in May, two additional things happened. My husband Dominic Calandra, an actor in "Tony and Tina's Wedding", had ten days off as his show moved from Planet Hollywood to Bally's, so we grabbed that window of opportunity to take a quick trip to Sicily, a place we had talked about visiting for some time. I had very little time to put plans in place, but I love being a virtual travel agent, and found some amazing places to stay on the Internet.

The second thing that happened was that I got a call to costume design a modern day version of Mozart's opera "Don Giovanni" for Opera Las Vegas. It was to open two weeks after my return from Italy! I nearly turned it down, but then I couldn't resist the chance the design an opera, something I had never done before. I quickly downloaded a filmed production of the opera from the Metropolitan Opera's website and researched the 5 principle singers, who have all performed at the Met. The director and conductor were also from the Met.

I admit at first I was a little intimidated by the idea of costuming major opera stars, especially on a small budget, but they turned out to be totally approachable and good fun. When I arrived at the first rehearsal, I was surprised (I don't know why!) to see them all in shorts, t-shirts, and flip-flops. Then they opened their mouths and out poured Mozart's music! It was funny to me, but I soon got used to it.

This is probably enough for this post. I will tell you about designing the opera another day.

DIANA ROSS CONCERT IN CENTRAL PARK, 1983!

I recently did an interview with journalist Dustin Fitzharris (for The Huffington Post and The Village Voice) about my memories of the famed Diana Ross Concert in Central Park in 1983  that got seriously interrupted by a sudden storm. Those words barely cover the strength of the storm - I think of it as an almighty near-mythical "tempest"!!

The extraordinary thing, besides the concert itself, is the fact that some 30 years later people are seeking me and others out for our recollections of that night. The concert aired on PBS a few weeks ago, and   the DVD will be released for sale in May. Watching the PBS special I was taken right back to that first night.

July 21st, 1983 started out a hot and sunny day. I had been in New York for several days (from LA) to help with the wardrobe prep. Miss Ross (as we all called her) had a lot riding on this concert and had been working toward it for months. On the day of the concert we got to the staging area early and had rehearsals with the dancers, musicians and all departments. The show finally started on time, but a very strong wind came up and Miss Ross had a hard time keeping her hair out of her eyes. At first it was only annoying. No big deal. Except..... in the distance to the north east we saw a very dark cloud approaching fast and knew that something BIG was about to happen.

Diana was onstage in her skimpy orange lace body suit and as she battled the wind I thought how dramatic it would be if I could get her to put on the orange chiffon cape. The quick change room was right under the stage by the exit stairs, so I grabbed the cape, climbed up the stairs and crouched at the edge of the stage. Finally I got her attention and she beckoned to me to bring the cape to her. It was a struggle to get it on as the wind was so fierce. But before long she started "working it" and became like some magical spirit facing down the almighty storm. The cape streamed out behind her and was captured by the cameras, both video and still, and the amazing images would appear on the front page of newspapers and magazines all over the world.

Then the rain came. We were all drenched! I mean, really drenched. I lost my sandals and was ankle deep in mud. Water ran down the stage and into the quick change room and into my surge strip where I had appliances plugged in! But, soaking wet or not, Miss Ross went on singing and interacting with her adoring fans. She kept the audience calm and kept singing, though absolutely drenched. Eventually I brought her a white designer blazer (Versace I think) that covered her a little better. Park officials, the mayor, the fire department, and the president of Paramount Pictures all were trying to get her to stop the concert out of concern for safety, and eventually, once Miss Ross felt the crowds were calm enough, she finally and reluctantly the stage.

She went into the warmth of her trailer, and eventually into the limo that whisked her away. The director  Steve Binder and video people emerged from the warm dark video truck into the cold rain and almost seemed surprised that it was actually wet outside! The musicians left in their vans, and one by one the crew could do no more and also left.

But the wardrobe crew, me plus about 3 others, as I remember, were still there, gathering up Miss Ross' things when suddenly, ALL THE LIGHTS WENT OUT! There we were in the pitch-black wet muddy Central Park! I told my crew to find black garbage bags and make themselves ponchos, take a sip of some brandy we found, and get their sewing scissors out which they were to hold in their hands as weapons. Thus we walked out of a dangerous Central Park in the pitch black. Eventually we made it to Central Park South, and then to the upscale Parker Meridian Hotel  on 56th st. They had been told to give anyone a room who needed one, and they never looked down their noses at our bizarrely attired group!

The next day, when I saw Diana's photo on the front page of the New York Times I was thrilled! I called her, and she asked me to drive out to her house in Connecticut and gather up some new costumes and gowns as the show would go on again!

And it did! Another lovely sunny day, but this time no storm. Everyone was elated at the return of the thousands and thousands of fans,  and the concert was brilliant. We all felt we had been a part of history. Who knew, after thirty years, that maybe we were.