My love for all things dance

I first witnessed ballet was when I was seven years old. My mother had taken me to see the Sadlers Wells Ballet perform Les Sylphides in London, and I was instantly mesmerized! Little did I know at the time that I would become a professional dancer, and then later transition to a costume designer.

That's not me in the photo. I just like the picture!

I never lost my love of dance and dancers. I know how hard it is to train, to become really good, and how short a ballet career will most likely be. Dancers of any age speak a common language, a language of sore muscles, intense and disciplined training, and the pure joy of artistic expression through movement.

In fact, it was my experience as a dancer that got me my first costuming job. I met one of the producers of Ann-Margret's lavish Las Vegas act, who was looking for someone to co-ordinate the 12 dancers' and 6 singers' costumes for her show. I thought I didn't know anything about costumes, only having worn them, never having made them, but the brilliant producer said I must understand what dancers need, and so gave me the job! That was what started it all.

Through Ann-Margret, I met Bob Mackie and became his assistant for the lavish Las Vegas show "Jubilee," and once again found myself costuming dancers. During rehearsals, I even took class with them from time to time if I wasn't busy downstairs in the wardrobe department. 

Leigh Taylor Young in Passions"

Many years later, while designing the show Passions, I had an unusual experience with actress Leigh Taylor Young. It turned out we had a unique connection from the past. She asked me, "Were you ever a student at the National Ballet School in Toronto?" I was surprised at the question, as that wasn't something that was in my bio. It turns out that she was also a ballet student there, a couple of years younger, and "looked up" to me, one of the "older" students at age fourteen!

From ballet to Broadway to ball gowns in Hollywood. Who would have thought!

MY LAS VEGAS

I feel a real kinship with Las Vegas, my city of residence since 2008, as it has figured largely in my professional and personal life through 5 decades. 

My association with Las Vegas starts in the 1960's (yes, I was alive in the ‘60‘s!) when, as a very young dancer, I came through the town on the train with the My Fair Lady company, on our way to Los Angeles. It was 2 am and the train stopped on the tracks downtown. I don’t remember a station, though I know there was one.  From our part of the train, we descended into a dirt lot, which we ran across, then crossed a street, and into a casino, what must have been the Hotel California. We had 30 minutes to put our quarters in the slot machines, something I had never seen, before we had to run back across the dirt lot to the train! It all seemed very strange and exotic and somewhat wicked!

I didn't return until the early 1970's when I got my first job in costumes, hired to co-ordinate the dancers’ wardrobe for Ann-Margret's nightclub act at the Hilton International, and then at Caesars. It was one of the highly successful acts of the time with dancers, singers, scenery and costumes galore, a live 30 piece orchestra on stage, and the best production talent around. Elvis Presley used to send Ann-Margret flowers on opening night in the shape of a guitar!   My first professional design was a dress for Ann-Margret that she wore in the TV special "CInderella at the Palace". 

Through Ann-Margret I met Bob Mackie, and my costume career really got underway. In 1980 I returned to Las Vegas for a 2 month stint, staying at the MGM Grand, as assistant to Bob Mackie as we prepared to open Jubilee, (the same show currently running). I was on the eleventh floor when I was awakened by the sound of running feet in the hall and people calling out, and I emerged into the hall to find it full of smoke.  I grabbed my purse, pulled on a sweat suit, and hurried down 11 flights of fire escape stairs emerging into the street, and started to look for my colleagues. The smoke was black and racing up the side of the hotel. Huge helicopters from Nellis AFB were hovering, trying to blow the smoke away from the rescue teams. Police cars, fire engines, news media were starting to arrive amid the chaos. I was barefoot and my feet were freezing until a man stopped and offered me his sneakers, a size 13! I wore them the rest of that day.

There were 14 of us Jubliee costumers from Los Angeles staying at the MGM for the great fire. Sadly, only 13 of us survived. I will never forget that day, nor the kindness of strangers who tried to help us. 

I returned many times in 1981 as we pulled out the ruined costumes from under the stage, led by firemen with flashlights, as there was still no power. We rebuilt the show in Los Angeles, and returned in July to re-do all the fittings, staying at Maxims across the street. 

In the early 80’s, Las Vegas still was small. You could cross Las Vegas Boulevard directly (no overpasses), there was no freeway, we ate at a little dive called The Tower of Pizza. The desert was near. The airport was very small. I don’t even remember noticing the mountains all around...the focus was all on the Strip.

I returned during the 80's now and then to work on shows (such as Splash, at the Riviera) but I wasn't prepared for the change when I returned in the late 80's. The airport had exploded! By this time I was working full time as a costume designer for TV series and films in Hollywood, and occasionally came up to Las Vegas to shoot on location. In 2003 we bought our first house here, and so when my husband and I were ready to make a semi-retirement move, Las Vegas already felt like home.

Since moving here in 2008 I am experiencing Las Vegas in a whole new way. I love looking at the mountains on all four sides of the valley, and in winter I love observing  the snow capped peaks of Mt Charleston out my second floor office window. I hike with friends year round at Red Rock, Lake Mead, or Mt Charleston, and I have discovered all sorts of unique little neighborhoods. In the north part of town where we live, sometimes I come across a small ranch with barns and horses, completely surrounded by new housing developments. I even enjoy hearing the trains that still travel down that same track that I travelled so long ago. There is still a flavor here and there of the old West, ranch life, desert life, mixing with the sophisticated elements of the Strip restaurants, shops and shows.

I visit the Strip quite often (more often than many full-time residents) to attend events, shows, parties, and to work, shop or eat. It’s only 15 minutes away! As I exit the freeway at Flamingo I pass Caesars, where so much happened for me professionally 30 years ago, and the huge bill board for Jubilee, which played was such a pivotal role in my life. I even pass by the fire escape door where I exited the MGM into the cold daylight on Flamingo Blvd. that fateful morning.

Old Vegas, New Vegas, there’s a part of my in all its parts, and I am happy about that.

THE VALUE OF HAVING A MENTOR

When I was starting my costume design career many years ago, I was very grateful for the guidance and encouragement I received from several “mentors”. Back then, the word “mentor” was not in common use as it is now, but I realize in retrospect that several key people played a very important role in my life.

Bob Mackie is obviously one of THE most important mentors in my life. When I met him, I had already transitioned from my career as a dancer and actress and started my costume career  co-ordinating the dancers and singers wardrobe for Ann-Margret’s big Las Vegas nightclub act in Las Vegas. For you younger readers, she was a huge star at the time, and had all the best musicians, writers, set designers, and of course, famed costume designer Bob Mackie to do all her fabulous costumes and beaded gowns. 

I remember the first time I met Ann-Margret and Roger Smith, her husband and manager. I had been taken to their house in Beverly Hills, up a dirt road off Benedict Canyon where once Lauren Bacall and Humphrey Bogart lived. It was about ten am, but Ann-Margret had slept late. Eventually she came out of her bedroom, hair tousled, no make-up, but warm and gracious. She hugged me and I was astonished at how petite she was. She asked me if I would put a heavy metal zipper in the back of one of her stage beaded gowns so it would be easier in a quick change. Imagine me, replacing the exquisitely hand sewn zipper in a $10,000 Bob Mackie beaded gown with a big metal zipper! What would he Bob Mackie think?

It wasn’t long after that I met him and I guess something about me struck him as, a year or two later he asked me to be his assistant for the Oscar Awards Show 1980, and then Jubilee, opening at the MGM Grand in 1980. This started a life-long connection with one of the best designers in the business, and with a kind and generous man. I did not call him a mentor, I was just his assistant, but I had the opportunity to watch him work at every level of the process - greeting a star when they arrived for a meeting, sketching, designing, choosing fabrics, choosing the best pattern-maker and team of sewers and tailors to execute the design, and most importantly, fitting it on the performer, usually many times. I watched perfectionism at its best.

There simply was no better training ground for me. I watched everything, asked many many questions, and for many years during my career, called for guidance and advice when I got stuck. Even last year, when I requested an hour out of his busy schedule for an interview for a book I am writing, he willingly gave me his time.

I would be remiss not to mention my other mentors, two designers who worked in Bob Mackie’s company, Peter Menefee, whom I assisted for several years, and Ret Turner, who is known and loved by every designing and costumer in Hollywood. 

So why would someone like me be willing to mentor someone at the beginning of their career? Well, one of the obvious answers is that others helped me so much along the way, and it is my turn to help others. 

I had started this blog with the intention of discussing how to find a good mentor and why it is important, and why I like to mentor talented young designers and costumers, but this is running on too long, and I will have to save it for my next post.

In the meantime, you can find out more about my mentoring and training course at my website www.hollywoodmentors.co

MEMORIES OF OLYMPIC COSTUMES!

Back in 1984, I was one of a number of costumers who got to work on the Opening and Closing Ceremonies of the Los Angeles Olympics!

And while the experience of being there for the that opening, and of seeing the lighting of the Olympic torch, are all among the highlights of my life, the two months leading up to them were anything but.

Bob Mackie and Pete Menefee were the costume designers for every element of the Opening Ceremonies, and each and every outfit worn had to be designed, made, and then fit on the participants, of which there were literally thousands! Our workspace was a huge warehouse in downtown Los Angeles, which had a tin roof, no windows, and was unbearably hot in July. The performers were all assigned a day to come and get their costume and were told to expect to spend at least 3 to 4 hours. When they arrived, their name was checked off against a list, their measurements taken, which were  then sent on to the next "station" while they tried on shoes. Imagine over a thousand pair of shoes in one spot! Once they got to the fitting area, they were handed their costume and sent to a cubicle to try it on. Then they came to me, one of 6 "fitters", where we took in, let out, marked hems, and tried to make each individual look perfect. The costume then went to the alteration department, who tried to complete the alterations quickly for the performer who sat in the waiting area.

The hours were incredibly long, and the work very repetitive, and we were paid a small salary as we had been told we were part "volunteers" and were privileged to be "a part of history".

Some of the tasks were quite amusing, in a weird way. It took two full days to remove the pins from the band members' white dress shirts, which arrived fully folded, pinned, and wrapped in plastic. There were 850 members in the marching band, so.....that meant 850 + shirts to unwrap.

Sometimes I was sent out to shop, which I liked, as it got me out and broke up the day. It also pleased the shop owners that I visited, as I was usually buying in great quantity. One task was to go out and find 300 pairs of legwarmers for the dancers! I bought out every dance shop's supply!

As we got closer and closer to the event, we spent more time at the Coliseum, to set up dress rehearsals, and found that the distances between "stage right" and "stage left" were immense and heaven forbid you forgot an item, as it would take 20 minutes to get back to home base and then back again.

One day as we entered the park, our ID badges around our necks, we spotted one of the European swimming teams getting ready for a training session at one of the pools. Without any self consciousness, they stripped off their shorts, and, as we discovered, many did not wear underwear. They casually pulled on their swim trunks while we tripped over each other taking a look!

The last 4 days before the Opening, we worked 18 hours a day. It was grim. I thought I might literally die from fatique. One night I fell into bed, and it seemed like minutes later when the alarm went off. My husband said I burst into tears as I couldn't believe it was morning already!

But the day of the Opening itself was magic. From the moment we passed through security, we could feel the excitement in the air. Organizers, bigwigs,  coaches, volunteers, assistants, guides, stage crew, all were scurrying around, working feverishly toward the 3 o'clock hour when it all started on the button. One moment sticks out in my mind. Every person in the stands had a colored card on their seat and was told that it was going to be used for a special moment later in the ceremony. At about half way through, they all were told to hold up the card with the silver side facing out. On the count of three they were to turn it over. One! Two! Three! And the whole stadium turned into color, with the cards creating the flags of every country participating! It took my breath away, and once more tears flowed from my eyes, this time from joy!

So watching these Olympics in London, 2012, brings back all the memories, intense, difficult, and exalted, that that opportunity bought me. I  was a lucky girl to be "a part of history"!

GOD BLESS MODERN TECHNOLOGY, SKYPE, AND MENTORS!

I just hung up the phone (no, actually, I was on the computer on skype) with Joe I Tompkins, a very successful, Oscar nominated, Emmy winning costume designer. He is now retired and living  happily in Merida, Mexico, and I was "on assignment" for the Costume Designers Guild to write about some of our best retired designers. What an amazing career Joe has had, and what a wealth of great advice he had.

As a mentor myself, naturally I am biased toward mentors! But I think back to when I was just starting out in a career in costumes and how much it meant to me when a more seasoned designer gave of their time to help me.

Had someone told me back then that I should seek out someone I admired as a mentor and contact them, I would have shrunk in fear from the idea! Who, after all, that was successful and whose work I admired would have the time to give advice to lowly me? Would I have had the courage to ask for help? Could I have made that call?

But actually  I got lucky when I was hired by Bob Mackie to work as his assitant for the Oscar Awards in 1980, and then the original Jubilee production for the MGM Grand. I consider Bob and the designers I worked with at his company Elizabeth Courtney Costumes my mentors. I didn't actually call them that, but everything that I know now about costume design I learned from working with them - watching them, listening to them, asking questions, and following their examples. They were all generous with suggestions or information when asked for, and to this day I feel I could call on any of them if I got "stuck" on a design. One time I asked Bob Mackie whether a white pique vest should show below the point at the waist of a man's black formal tailcoat. He said that Fred Astaire had told him directly that no, it should not, as a clean black line from head to toe elongated a man, and the vest should only show when the arms were raised, perhaps to dance? Astaire also said that he had learned that from the Duke of Windsor, fashion arbiter and innovator. So my simple question to Bob elicited an answer that went all the way back to the 1930's for authenticity! I have never forgotten that moment.

I would suggest to any young designer, writer, film-maker, or creative being, not to be afraid to reach out to those whose careers they admire. Sometimes, yes, they are too busy or not interested, but as often as not, especially in their later years, they are very mellow, very understanding, and actually love the fact that their experience and wisdom might be appreciated by someone.

Being out of your comfort zone is good for a career.

I am around young people a lot in my role as costume designer for independent films, videos, commercials etc and in my role as a mentor, and I am often reminded how terrifying “first times” can be in a career, especally at the start of a new job, a new film, a new anything that requires you to work in your chosen profession and risk failing. 

But risk-taking is essential for moving forward in a career. When I am asked, should I quit my day job and go for full time acting/directing/designing? Should I move to LA? Should I quit the full time dancing gig I have (in the chorus, where I can go no further), and risk everything auditioning for principle roles?..... my answer is always yes! yes! yes! If you are asking the question, then you are ready to take the next step. You must take the next step. If you are too comfortable, you won’t move forward. Somehow the very act of making that scary leap of faith forces you to land on your feet. 

Many years ago, when I was a dancer on Broadway, my friends thought I was crazy for turning down a new job in the long running show “Hello Dolly”, but it was another chorus job and I wanted to act. It took a while, but I eventually got my first acting role as Gendolyn Pigeon in the National Company of “The Odd Couple.” 

Some years later, after five years of being an assistant costume designer, (though an assistant to the very best, Bob Mackie) and wanting to move on,  it took working days as an assitant and nights designing low budget theatre projects for no pay. I often was so exhausted I thought I would die.  But I got my name out there as a costume designer in my own right, which eventually led to my first paid costume designer job on “The Fact of Life”. Flash forward: after I had designed half a dozen TV sitcoms, one producer had the nerve to tell me that I would NEVER get hired for a serious drama or movie, since I was known for sitcoms. I took great delight in proving her wrong! 

The scary times were many. But what I learned is this:

• You never die from exhaustion. You may feel really lousy and think you are going to die, but you don’t.
• You won’t starve. You may get a tiny bit behind on your bills, but you won’t starve.
• You will never get hired for a job that someone doesn’t believe you can do, even if you don’t quite believe it yet yourself.
• You can get through those first frightening days and weeks of a new job if you keep showing up, staying calm, listening and watching, and most of all, believing that each day will get a little easier and you will feel a little more confident. Before long you will feel totally confortable in your position, and before you know it, you’ll want to be out on the edge again!

Remember to check out my online costume training program at http://hollywoodmentors.co

Late Bloomers and Mentors

One of the things that has inspired me to launch HollywoodMentors.co are the emails I receive from aspring designers who ask me for advice about how to get started in a career in costume design. 

It is not an easy question to answer, as the business is so unique, the locations where one can be a designer so few and far between, and the way in so different for each person. But what I DO know is that it is always possible for those who have the the persistence, perserverence, and down right tenacity to do whatever it takes to get that foot in the door.

I once interviewed several highly successful designers about their career beginnings. Al Wolsky, for example, seven time Oscar nominee, and two time Oscar winner for Bugsy and All That Jazz, started “late”, in his thirties. He had started his professional life as a travel agent, working in his family’s firm, but felt after a while it was not for him. He got a job “picking up pins”, as he puts it, at famed costume workroom Barbara Matera’s. The point is, he was willing to do the lowliest of jobs just to be in the right environment and in a place where he could learn from the best.

I did not start my career in costume deisgn until I was in my thirties. After a number of years dancing in shows on Broadway, followed by another 5 or 6 years touring in national companies as an actress, I moved to Los Angeles and met a man who was looking for someone to coordinate wardrobe for the dancers and singers in Ann-Margret’s Las Vegas nightclub act. I didn’t think I knew much about costumes, but I knew about dancers and their needs and next thing I knew I was flying up to Las Vegas, staying at Caesar’s Palace, and organizing and prepping mulitple outfits for 8 dancers and 4 singers. I was working with Ann-Margret, Roger Smith, and was soon to meet my future mentor, the fabulous costume designer Bob Mackie.

It was never officially called “a mentorship” as I was hired and paid as one of his assitants for the show “Jubilee”.  I can trace every job I have had in the last 25 years to my start with Bob, and just about everything I learned about costumes I learned from him. 

As the saying goes, “ luck is when preparation meets opportunity.” I was one lucky girl! 


More on my costume training at http://hollywoodmentors.co